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https://www.chipdip.ru/product0/44435 это они в трёхе?
На фотке 1100 Ом, точность не скажу по памяти
Size: a a a
2020 July 29
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Но и ряд не е12
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там же написано 1ком
ну я к тому что синий цвет фона тоже что то означает, вроде это 1% допуск, но это не точно
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ну я к тому что синий цвет фона тоже что то означает, вроде это 1% допуск, но это не точно
Допуск левое колечко
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а, мей би
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Хотя не видел пятиполосых не синих
St
ну так.. какой всё-таки?
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ну так.. какой всё-таки?
а с чего все началось?
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ну так.. какой всё-таки?
1.1×10²
1100 Ом
1100 Ом
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и почему бы не взять 1 кОм 0.75 Вт?
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St
с замены привода дисков на нечто лайтовое и пропаже нагрузки на транзисторы в очень старой игровой консоли
St
Optional (but recommended) power modification:
With the GD-ROM gone, the 12V rail that powered it is no longer having that draw on it, so can output up to 14V, causing your Dreamcast to get very, very hot, and may shorten the lifespan of components. The 3D printed tray I’m fitting will help airflow, but if you’re not fitting one, some people recommend you put in some paper to help the fan draw air correctly over the PSU, as can be seen in this crude example. To rectify this effectively, a simple mod adding some resistors will bring the voltage back down. This information originally came from this post, and at 01:40 in the second video down the page, you can see where it needs to go. Further discussions with two awesome people, one an electronics expert, have made me alter the modification slightly. He advised that a 300ohm 1/4W resistor isn’t really going to cut the mustard as it will itself get too hot. If you’re going to go for a single resistor, 1W is better. Further to that, 330ohm is better than 300ohm as it will lower the amperage output, and that’s what’s going to make more difference to the heat generation. Even better than that is three 1Kohm 1/4W resistors in parallel (creating a resistance of 333.33ohm), as the load is shared between the three.
With the GD-ROM gone, the 12V rail that powered it is no longer having that draw on it, so can output up to 14V, causing your Dreamcast to get very, very hot, and may shorten the lifespan of components. The 3D printed tray I’m fitting will help airflow, but if you’re not fitting one, some people recommend you put in some paper to help the fan draw air correctly over the PSU, as can be seen in this crude example. To rectify this effectively, a simple mod adding some resistors will bring the voltage back down. This information originally came from this post, and at 01:40 in the second video down the page, you can see where it needs to go. Further discussions with two awesome people, one an electronics expert, have made me alter the modification slightly. He advised that a 300ohm 1/4W resistor isn’t really going to cut the mustard as it will itself get too hot. If you’re going to go for a single resistor, 1W is better. Further to that, 330ohm is better than 300ohm as it will lower the amperage output, and that’s what’s going to make more difference to the heat generation. Even better than that is three 1Kohm 1/4W resistors in parallel (creating a resistance of 333.33ohm), as the load is shared between the three.
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Optional (but recommended) power modification:
With the GD-ROM gone, the 12V rail that powered it is no longer having that draw on it, so can output up to 14V, causing your Dreamcast to get very, very hot, and may shorten the lifespan of components. The 3D printed tray I’m fitting will help airflow, but if you’re not fitting one, some people recommend you put in some paper to help the fan draw air correctly over the PSU, as can be seen in this crude example. To rectify this effectively, a simple mod adding some resistors will bring the voltage back down. This information originally came from this post, and at 01:40 in the second video down the page, you can see where it needs to go. Further discussions with two awesome people, one an electronics expert, have made me alter the modification slightly. He advised that a 300ohm 1/4W resistor isn’t really going to cut the mustard as it will itself get too hot. If you’re going to go for a single resistor, 1W is better. Further to that, 330ohm is better than 300ohm as it will lower the amperage output, and that’s what’s going to make more difference to the heat generation. Even better than that is three 1Kohm 1/4W resistors in parallel (creating a resistance of 333.33ohm), as the load is shared between the three.
With the GD-ROM gone, the 12V rail that powered it is no longer having that draw on it, so can output up to 14V, causing your Dreamcast to get very, very hot, and may shorten the lifespan of components. The 3D printed tray I’m fitting will help airflow, but if you’re not fitting one, some people recommend you put in some paper to help the fan draw air correctly over the PSU, as can be seen in this crude example. To rectify this effectively, a simple mod adding some resistors will bring the voltage back down. This information originally came from this post, and at 01:40 in the second video down the page, you can see where it needs to go. Further discussions with two awesome people, one an electronics expert, have made me alter the modification slightly. He advised that a 300ohm 1/4W resistor isn’t really going to cut the mustard as it will itself get too hot. If you’re going to go for a single resistor, 1W is better. Further to that, 330ohm is better than 300ohm as it will lower the amperage output, and that’s what’s going to make more difference to the heat generation. Even better than that is three 1Kohm 1/4W resistors in parallel (creating a resistance of 333.33ohm), as the load is shared between the three.
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1Вт 330 Ом
St
я ж его и скинул
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я ж его и скинул
там 0.25 Вт
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а тут 1
St
хорошо